A lightly frosted cruller at Lil’s Cafe in downtown Kittery was the most-dreamy deep-fried sweet dough experience of my life. It’s curled into a fluted donut shape but is not at all like a cakey donut, thank heavens. This cruller is light, fluffy with an eggy flavor that melts in your mouth. It’s made in the French style with a pâte à choux pastry. The original cruller, a twisted stick, was invented by the Dutch, who first introduced it in the New World to New Yorkers. I discovered Lil’s when looking for a café on the southern Maine coast. The customer in front of me shyly glanced my way when I was deciding which delectable pastry to choose. I asked if she had a recommendation—no question, the highly addictive classic cruller. When I went back for seconds, even though there were several flavors, including maple, I had to buy the classic again because it was so good. They also sell delicious No. 6 Depot coffee, filling breakfast sandwiches, and plump lunch sandwiches made with their own bread.
Lil’s is a bustling hot spot that has helped revitalize this little village. And, indeed, it feels like the “neighborhood meeting place” first imagined by the founders. How else could I have gotten the tip about the cruller?
Tip—Other cruller sites* and nearby businesses: