‘Fish’n Chips de Cabillaud’ is on the menu at the fifth-floor cafeteria of BHV. Lunch at one of the major department stores in Paris is almost always a treat, especially because of the city view and reasonable prices. And I’m always in pursuit of cod. A hefty plateful of French fries and a couple of fresh deep-fried cod filets looks appetizing. So does the crowded terrace, especially on a brilliant, sunny fall day with a view of the Hotel de Ville and the Seine. Too bad the fish (I think it was cod) was dry and lukewarm, such irreverence for the noble codfish. Doused with delicious tartar sauce, it disappeared from my plate.